After a Month Exploring Kuala Lumpur- Would we Retire Here?

What a whirlwind it has been. As the first destination we visited after deciding to sell all our possessions and home to retire early and slow travel, KL has been very interesting. After lots of previous travel experience, we were under no illusion that KL would be much like any other big city. At times chaotic, noisy, yet full of energy; a dynamic start to our slow travel journey.

What we didn't anticipate was how easy it was to fall in love with this multicultural hive of activity. The energy contagious, it’s people full of ready smiles and around every corner a welcome surprise. Don't get me wrong like any large SE Asian city there is rubbish, drain smells, skinny cats and lines of scooters blocking the sidewalk. But there is also community, tolerance and a readiness to embrace the new, which certainly makes travel, no matter your experience, less daunting. With its mix of ethnicities including Malay, Chinese, Indian and Middle Eastern there is both religious and cultural tolerance which is refreshing.

Because we booked our accommodation so close to the date of departure we paid more than we hoped for. This was due to waiting on the sale of our home and it being the Christmas holidays. However, we found Majestic Residences to be in a great location next to Quill Mall and a MRT station. We found a way to walk into KLCC area Via Saloma Bridge which took around 20 minutes. The One bedroom apartment was well appointed with a small kitchenette, modern bathroom, separate bedroom and lounge/dining area. Wi-fi was fast and there was even a projector screen for your TV viewing. Large full length windows let in a lot of natural light although the view was underwhelming to say the least as there was a view over adjacent apartment buildings and an area where locals sort rubbish. The pool and gym were great but like most pool areas in Malaysia there were only a few sun loungers. Still under construction there was some noise and a bit of mess in the common areas but nothing major.

As mentioned previously KL is very walkable using air bridges over the motorways and there are the most incredible covered walkways connecting the main malls in the inner city. They are even air conditioned which gives you respite from the heat and humidity. To get around the city we tended to use Grab (SE Asia version of uber) as it was cheap and convenient with the average trip costing from $3-$6 USD one way. The Metro rail system is also convenient and inexpensive carrying you to all parts of the city with some longer trips requiring you to switch lines at connecting stations.

So to sightseeing, most of which is free. We only paid to get into Kuala Lumpur Bird Park and it was well worth the money as we spent several hours exploring the wonderfully laid out park full of free flying birds. The grounds were lush, the paths well laid out winding through different habitats to view many species of birds. A bonus were the monkeys, some mothers with babies who were very cute. They were much calmer than monkeys we have seen before because you are not able to feed them so they are more relaxed around humans. There were birds we had never seen before and they all appeared to be happy and content. From there we were able to walk to the adjacent Botanical gardens which is a lovely calm green space in the middle of the city with many walking paths and interesting gardens. There is plenty to enjoy including several waterfalls. There are good facilities so you can stay for several hours if you like.

We didn't go in, but outside the gardens is the National Museum. There were plenty of cafes, restaurants and toilets as well as a GRAB pickup area so it is a good hub area. Most of what we chose to do was free as we enjoy wandering the city, eating with the locals, going to the markets they enjoy and soaking up the richly layered culture of a diverse place.

KLCC Park which is right in the heart of the city next to Petronas towers is another green space with a fountain and light show in the evenings, a running track, children's playground and large paddling pool. It's fantastic for people watching but the cafes at the mall overlooking the park are very expensive so be warned. Lol. They are an actual fact a similar price to Western countries, but you get spoilt by the low cost elsewhere.

Batu caves is a fascinating place with Hindu temples inside a cave complex accessed by 272 multi coloured stairs so if you're feeling fit this is something you might enjoy. Painted in vibrant multicolours with a large 43M gold statue at the base it is a feast for all the senses. The energy is contagious, monkeys of all sizes scamper around you on the climb up so hang on to loose items. The lower level is great for photography lovers with fish ponds, jungle clad limestone kaarst, monks and people from every culture. Take your time to absorb the engaging views, people watch and soak in the unique atmosphere.

As part of what we do is to test a locations livability we visited several malls to see what facilities they've provided. The Quill Mall had a fantastic supermarket but we also discovered the local wet market called Chow Kit market, where the locals shop. The produce was abundant, beautifully displayed and superfresh. The prices were incredibly low, we bought fresh corn on the cob, 5 cobs for $1 USD. Because everything was so fresh there was no smell but for anyone with a weaker stomach the fish and meat sections can be a little confronting. Cleaver wielding butchers expertly dismember beef, chicken and fish carcasses in a blur to the soundtrack of raised voices encouraging you to buy amid the happy chatter of the stall holders. Despite the low cost It was still cheaper to eat at small local restaurants, from Street vendors and at the good quality restaurants at the mall. If you love to cook however you could most certainly make the most incredible meals. The two of us ate well for around $15 USD per day but you could certainly splurge and spend more like 20 to 25. We found a fantastic Japanese restaurant just around the corner serving Norwegian salmon and delicious beef tataki. It was great to have some variety. You can find every cuisine but the most plentiful are the restaurants serving traditional Nasi Lemak. Bain-Marie's full of fish and vegetable curries, meat of every description, Sambal, trays of vegetables to choose from all served with a side of coconut rice and a cooked egg whether fried or boiled. The heat comes from the sambal so you can mix to your own taste. Most places had a server who spoke some English so it was easy to convey what you would like otherwise just point. We also used Google Translate for some of the trickier menus. Middle Eastern, Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Malaysian food were very easy to find and most served some kind of Western dishes but these were a lot more expensive.

The malls, depending on the size also provide access to a Pharmacy, Dentists, Optometrists and other health care providers you may need. There were your usual hairdressers, beauticians and day spas. Clothing and shoes were plentiful and cheap. There was even an exceptional second hand clothing shop. Part of travelling light is to have a capsule wardrobe but replacing items as they wear out is cheap and easy.

So in conclusion Kuala Lumpur is most certainly a place, where if living in a quieter suburb slightly outside of the city centre, you would enjoy everything a large city has to offer. With English being widely spoken, fantastic food, amazing shopping, world class healthcare, an International Airport that can take you anywhere in the world and being extremely affordable, this is could be for you . But for us coming from a smaller town in New Zealand it at times felt a little loud and overwhelming being amongst so many people. We are looking for somewhere with similar infrastructure but a small town vibe.

The search continues …..