Penang, Malaysia - Is the Pearl of the Orient the place to settle down?
Will Penang Island live up to its title, the Pearl of the Orient ? Lets put it to the test !!
This vibrant Malaysian state is renowned as the country’s food capital, offering a rich blend of UNESCO listed heritage, diverse cultures, lush rainforest and stunning coastal scenery.
You have a number of options in travelling to Penang, fly in or drive crossing one of the two bridges (the longest being 24km) or like us train to Butterworth then take a short 20 minute ferry ride to Georgetown, the capital of Penang. If you want to see how easy the train and ferry trip were click on the link below.
There are numerous areas to stay and we chose the district of Tanjung Bungah, managing to find the Rainbow Paradise Hotel as our accommodation. This place is a bit worn looking but has the vibe of being stuck in the 80’s, which adds to the charm of the place. Beach access with a beach bar and a great pool make up for some of its tiredness. All the rooms have large balconies and our view was stunning, watching the sunrise and seeing Sea Eagles cruising by was the ideal way to start most days.
The location is great with numerous restaurants, the Astaka Hillside hawker market, Tanjung Bungah market and food court (great for breakfasts) and new cafe complex within walking distance. Also every Tuesday evening the Tanjung market turns into a streetfood market.
The beach is not too long and you can walk all the way to the Floating Mosque (visit at high tide) comfortably observing daily fishing life on the way. If you head the opposite direction there are some photogenic boulders in which to walk thru and over. The sea has a gentle swell and is weirdly quite warm so the pool was our swimming preference for cooling off.
The first place most people experience is Georgetown with that interesting mix of old and new with construction sites indicating that more development is just around the corner. In the Old Town a multicultural mix offers historic shophouses, temples and modern bustling city life.
Simply wander the streets of the Old Town discovering street art, boutiques and cafe culture. Armenian street is the most touristy in the area, with its art, souvenir shops and cafes. There are photo opportunities everywhere involving the famous Street Art, these are scattered all over Georgetown and it pays to wander the streets off the main tourist spots to find some of these hidden gems.
Make a point of visiting Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi, a Chinese clanhouse and Museum. The main building and prayer hall are beautiful, liberally decorated with gold, painted lanterns and an ornate roof. This might just be Georgetown’s most stunning architecture. Also the Goddess of Mercy Temple is small but stunning and as you enter the smell of sandalwood incense gives it a sense of calm and serenity as devotees wander in and out.
Little India in Georgetown is a vibrant, bustling ethnic enclave. It is a cultural, shopping and dining hub filled with Tamil music, colourful sari’s, spices, jewelry and sweet treats to sample as you walk this busy neighbourhood.
While wandering around we happened on China House. An unassuming building on the outside but once inside it transforms into three restaurants, art gallery, library, pool, retail popup shops, cocktail lounge, performing arts stage and most famous of all, Cakes! They sell up to 7000 a month and you have over 30 to choose from. This is one of the trendiest spots in Georgetown and you will be tempted to visit more than once.
Head towards the waterfront from the Old Town and the famous Clan Jetties appear. These traditional stilt houses built by Chinese immigrants in the 19th Century offer a glimpse into a living, fishing community. There are six of these villages on water, and in each village lives one clan with there own temples. The Chew Jetty is the most popular, but it lacks authenticity due to the number of souvenir shops and ice cream sellers. It also attracts the most visitors , so getting those perfect photos can be challenging at times. Make time to visit the other Clan Jetties for a more authentic feel, go early to witness daily life.
By spending time talking to a local Cafe Owner we were put onto two amazing locals hangouts. The first was Jetty 35 abandoned warehouses converted into a cultural hipster hotspot. It offers a nostalgic, industrial retro space for art and culture, with the Michelin rated eatery Rasa Rasa. The entrance is next to the art installation, girl and boy on a swing or across the road from the Lim Clan Jetty. The second was the very cool Hin Bus Depot. This is an abandoned 1947 Art Deco Bus repair station transformed into a creative hub where art, culture and weekend life blend perfectly. The fusion of old and new gives the market its unique soul and every weekend local artisans display their crafts, exceptional food and drinks are on offer and musicians take centre stage. This is one of those local treasures you discover when straying from the tourist trail and are in no rush to be anywhere, so spend an afternoon with the locals, you will not be disappointed.
For nature lovers head to Penang Hill. Enjoy the Funicular Railway ride ($8 USD) up to the summit for panoramic views of the island. Once up there you can wander thru the rainforest enjoying canopy walks and a well groomed walkway. There is an abundance of wildlife so keep yours eyes peeled for Langur monkeys, giant squirrels which we were able to spot and an array of insects. Unfortunately the monkeys were absent on our walk, but then the next morning on the way back from our local market we took a shortcut and were delighted to see a troop of them in the residential neighbourhood hanging out in the trees. Up the hill there are also cafes, an Indian Temple and Mosque. Go early to avoid crowds and the heat of the day. This day out is well worth it at $15USD per person, even if you miss out on the wildlife the views and stunning scenery are not to missed. This is not a checklist attraction but a place to wander, pause and absorb.
Also head to Entopia and immerse yourself in The Natureland living outdoor gardens, wander into artificial caves filled with insects and amphibians, thru waterfalls to see reptiles, Japanese Koi, Snapping turtles and then the experience of being amongst up to 15,000 free flying butterflies. Take time to visit the quirky educational area or refresh at the onsite cafe. This is a remarkable place to lose yourself for a few hours.
On the way back from Entopia we stopped at Batu Ferrenghi for a drink on the beachfront at Bora Bora. Batu is a popular spot for tourists to stay and has a long beach with resident bars dotted along it and water adventures to partake in. There is also a vibrant, daily night market running along the main road. It offers an eclectic mix of souvenirs, clothing, handicrafts and local street food making it a must visit for nightlife. This place didn’t seem to have the vibe for us to spend along time here as we much preferred the quieter Tanjung Bungah beach area.
If you love a temple then this is a must see. Kek Lok SI Temple meaning Temple of Supreme Bliss is more than just a temple. It’s an entire complex of various Buddhist architectural styles built over decades since the 1800’s. Weave your way thru intricate alleys, prayer halls, gardens and statues. On three distinct levels, connected by a small Funicular between each, makes it a little easier navigating the steep slope. The second level highlights are the seven tier pagoda and main prayer hall and then finishing at the top with the impressive bronze Kuan Yin statue. It is well worth visiting this hillside sanctuary.
We spent our last outing by visiting the Botanical Gardens. Often referred to as the Waterfall Gardens, this sits on the fringes of Georgetown. Sprawling across 71 acres of verdant valleys and manicured terrains, this garden is a must for nature lovers and those seeking a peaceful respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Penang is one of those places that reels you in. We had the most enjoyable time here and can’t recommend this place enough. Our location of Tanjung Bungah was superb, excellent food close by, a real community feel and a nice quiet beach. What more could you want? This is definitely a place people would love to call home.