An Bang Beach, Vietnam - Hoi An’s seaside retreat is the perfect place to slow down
Most people have heard of Hoi An, a UNESCO world heritage ancient town in Central Vietnam. But you don’t realize that in Hoi An’s neighborhoods there are some beautiful beaches. One in particular is An Bang Beach, which feels somehow removed from the hustle and bustle of the city, like a quaint seaside haven. This tranquil village beckons travelers with sand, gentle waves and a laidback charm. This stretch of coastline makes you slow down and take a breath from the energy of Vietnams cities.
Arriving at Da Nang International Airport, recently upgraded and very efficient as we got through immigration quickly. By the bag pickup we purchased our Sim Card for one month and headed outside to the ATM machine to start feeling like a millionaire as we withdrew millions of VND for very little of our own currency. We ordered a Grab thru the App and then a 30min journey to An Bang, once again getting used to the traffic and abundance of scooters.
We arrived at our accommodation, La Alba Villas situated on the main street of An Bang. A stylish decor greets you as you arrive and the pool looks so inviting. A ground floor apartment, well appointed with a King Bed and kitchen made this a most comfortable stay. The location is superb with the delightful French Bakery Cafe next door for breakfast or more. A short 5 minute walk to the beach or to the small local restaurants up the main street make the location superb.
An Bang Beach sits about 5km from Hoi An, with the rice fields in between, close enough to the old town without being in it and all the tourists which can be overwhelming. Most tourists journey out here by bicycle or Grab vehicles for a day at the beach, but for the lucky few they base themselves here and travel the opposite direction and then escape the crowds.
The coastline has seen a lot of development in recent years but luckily An Bang has avoided most of this due to being right amongst the sand dunes and is considered unsuitable to build large scale projects on. An abandoned small castle stands testament to this, the shell of it stands there overlooking the beach. The town is seeing small scale development, more accommodation is being built, small local businesses popping up, a mini golf course to attract families, yet it still feels like a small village.
The beach is the main drawcard here, small round basket boats dot the beach, as do a multitude of sun loungers under shade umbrellas. With views of the Cham Islands and Da Nang in the distance, grab a lounger (50,000 VND for the day or free if you purchase drinks or food) and chill for the day, cold drinks and meals delivered to you and then if you want a break from the beach head to one of the many beachside bars and restaurants and sample a range of dishes. All the seafood is on display in tanks outside the restaurants awaiting your choice of crayfish, crab, prawns or fish for a delicious meal of fresh seafood. As the sun goes down live music is usually spilling out of one of these bars, so sit back, enjoy a drink and watch the lights of the fishing boats in the distance catching tomorrow’s meal. When staying here, make sure you walk the beach early for a beautiful sunrise and spend time watching fisherman bring in there catches to the wives to take to market, the locals doing early morning exercises, old men burying themselves in the sand and football kick arounds.
Every morning we wake up to hear the noise from the nearby daily morning market. Women in conical Non La hats and coloured Ao Ba Ba pyjamas are selling their wares, from daily catches of fish, to fruit, vegetables and poultry. Enter the wet market area for meat and seafood of every description, through to hand made noodles and other food products this is a small market but rich nonetheless in its selection of incredible produce. These markets embody what is truly special about Vietnam which is the true sense of community.
The main street is filled with small eating establishments, spas and some clothing shops. The lanes running off this are full of small hotels, guesthouses, homestays, laundries and some delightful cafes and restaurants. Just wander somewhere different every day to discover another hidden delight around every corner. We found a small but raucous sewing room full of ladies working away, local joiners crafting timber furniture and traditional bamboo screen craftsmen working away, tucked into the small lanes.
Travel just outside An Bang and over the Co Co River bridge to the Tra Que Vegetable Village, where local households have used this 40 hectare area growing vegetables and herbs for over 400 years. Using seaweed from the river as fertiliser, the food is fresh and healthy. The produce is supplied to all the local restaurants and markets in the area. You can also take cooking classes here using all the locally picked fresh ingredients and try the local Basil Seed drink. This village has two areas either side of the main road, one is very quiet and smaller, the other is where the tour groups go, so it can be crowded but offers more interaction with the locals. The Rao Cafe is here and is well worth a time out, it is stylish, comfortable with outstanding coffee and views of the vegetable gardens. There are rice fields surrounding the area, so make time to walk through these to get glimpses of water buffalo, bird life and locals working the fields.
If your looking to escape the sometimes busy beach of An bang head just down the road to Hidden Beach where there are some stylish Cafes like Sound of Silence or Taste of the Sea which have beach access. The beach is less crowded, although it does not look as good with large erosion bags holding back the sea from the restaurants.
When it comes to food options An Bang has a large variety of cafes and restaurants. The main street offers cheap local restaurants with delicious Vietnamese food, to Greek, French, Mexican and fusion dining. If you head beachside it’s fresh seafood on offer, caught that day and delivered to site. You can even choose your own from the large tanks sitting adjacent to the restaurants, Crayfish, crabs and an assortment of fish unknowingly awaiting their fate.
We can highly recommend French Bakery for its pastries, Blu Station for Greek Souvlaki, Mom’s Kitchen for anything on the menu, Na Huy Restaurant for the Crispy Chicken Wontons (also the bonus of watching the owner cook in a tiny kitchen), breakfasts at Cozy Corner Cafe, beachside coconut coffee at Rua Cafe, An Bang Beach Village Restaurant where the father cooks Vietnamese (try the Grilled Snapper in Turmeric) and the Mother cooks amazing Indian food and great food in a stylish setting at Rao Restaurant. An Bang is one of those places where the food is great wherever you choose, so wander the lanes to discover unexpected dining treats and try a new establishment every day.
The month spent here was so enjoyable, mainly because of the friendly locals. Being a small community we formed connections with so many people, from Restauranteurs, the lovely hat sellers on their motorbikes, the staff at La Alba Villa, Mimi for a weekly massage, to the locals we saw most days going about their daily lives.
An Bang beach has so much to offer, so do yourself a favor and spend some time here. This place seems like it is isolated but it’s reassuring to know that Hoi An is 5 mins away and the city of Da Nang with Hospitals and an International airport all within half an hour.
This quaint little village will not be a secret for too long as a place to stay, so make sure it is on your itinerary as a base for exploring the Hoi An area or a relaxing slow travel retreat. Staying here will leave you so relaxed and possibly contemplating how good would it be to be here long term.